Wednesday, January 30, 2019

The Truth About Color Correction

Color correction can be a daunting term—but do we really understand the meaning? You would
think that if your hair is colored too dark, you can just put another color on and make it lighter.
But there is a very strong science behind this: color does not lift color. If you put a lighter color
on hair that is too dark, it will do absolutely nothing.

Color correction is primarily used in two cases: when colored hair is too dark, or the color is not
the right tonality. Too dark means that it does not suit your skin tone and eye color, or perhaps
it washes you out, emphasizes every line and pore on your face, or brings out your not so
beautiful features. Tonality means it may be too warm or too cool for your skin tone and/or eye
color, and something just isn’t quite right. This does not always mean that you are in for a
complete overhaul, but it does mean something must change for it to look more natural on you
and bring out your more flattering features.

Color corrections can be challenging because they all depend upon what was used to color the
hair, how many levels lighter the hair needs to go, or what kind of shift in tone is required. Box
dyes are by far the worst. Using metallics and high levels of ammonia to color the hair, they
blow the cuticle or the outer layer of the hair shaft and then the metallics are placed in the
cortex inside the hair shaft to make the color stay. They also typically color your ends a much
darker shade than the rest of the hair. If your hair is made too dark by a box color, the metallics
are going to resist and make it very hard to get that color out. How much lighter you want your
hair to be will determine how much work needs to be done.

Professional color is much easier to get out of the hair because many times the color was done
recently, and so it has not had complete time to set into the hair. Professional color also does
not contain metallics, so it’s easier to remove than box color. That being said, all is contingent
on what color we are shooting for. If you’re a dark brunette and want blonde hair, it may be as
simple as putting some highlights in such as foils or balayage to brighten things up. If you want
to go all-over light, then maybe a color remover is your best option. If the tone is not quite
right, that can always be adjusted with a simple color wash to bring out your best features and
make you glow.

Color corrections have come a long way from what they used to be. No longer do we have to
“strip” the hair, meaning put bleach all over your head and pray that the color lifts out.
Professional color companies have developed color removers, which open the outer layer of
the hair shaft and remove the color molecule (mechanically while shampooing it). These are
safe and effective and will not leave the integrity of your hair lacking. Once the color is
removed, you can apply your target shade.

Color correction does not have to be scary. The best thing you can do when faced with a color
challenge is call us at Dsparada and book a complimentary consultation so you and your stylist
can decide the best course of action to make you feel like yourself again!

By Jennifer Patronelli

Tuesday, January 29, 2019

Warm, Cool,or Conditioning Color

Can you believe it? Winter is here again. Its amazing how fast the year went by. Want to end it with a fun new hairdo? Today we are going to be talking about winter color. For me, the first thing that comes to mind is a ride through the Poconos looking at all the foliage that the season brings---- bright shades of yellows, reds, and oranges. For you, it may be a drive through somewhere more local, like Asheville, but the colors are the same warm, inviting variety. With all that in mind, imagine your hair color with some of those warmer tones. Which one would complement your hair and skin tone? When you see your colorist, ask which one would look best. Its important to look at your base color or your "roots". If your base color is gold or warm, you do not want to use cool tones. If you have ash or cool base colors, you would tone with a cooler color. Its a basic but effective guide to never making mistakes. You want to use a toner that is lighter than your roots, up to three levels....personally, I prefer the lightest option.

For example, lets say your hair is a light warm brown.  If you'd like a subtle but noticeable change, you could use a dark copper blonde toner, with light golden blonde highlights. If you were a light ash brown, you'd want to use a medium ash blonde toner accompanied by some light ash blonde baby-lights. This approach will provide a kiss of sunlight to your hair, as if you have just left the Bahamas. it is important not to go too overboard on the highlights....... applying just enough to accent the darker colors. I can assure you that this formula always works, leaving you with a sophisticated and classic look. 

If you're open to a less traditional approach, you may want to consider colored conditioners! Now I know what you're thinking: colored conditioners? Hear me out. If you like fashion colors and healthy locks, color conditioners are definitely the way to go! If you have any experience with 'fashion' color, you know what a toll it can take on your hair. As I said before, its amazing how quickly 365 days can go by and how quickly you may change your mind concerning hair colors. With 'fashion' color conditioners, you can have the benefit of changing up you look, while maintaining a healthy head of hair.  Its conditioner! Rose gold, topaz, magenta, violet? Imagine the possibilities ( they make awesome stocking stuffers too!) Its a east as washing your hair and leaving in the color conditioner in for a certain amount of time. For a more temporary look, 2 to 5 minutes. Want something more permanent? Leave the conditioner in for 30 to 40 minutes. It really is dependent on the intensity you're seeking. It fades just like color. All that is left to do is enjoy the holiday season and love your hair!

By Ray Roesemann

Sometimes Less Is More

Do you ever see someone with a really cute and fun short haircut, and wish that you could have
their style? I hear that all the time from people with long hair who want to go short, but are either
afraid of change, or afraid of looking too masculine. Short hair can be very empowering for a
woman of any age, especially when the cut is specifically tailored to her own personal style.
With trends constantly changing, it can be difficult to decide on the haircut that best
suits you and your lifestyle. This doesn’t have to be a challenge if you have a good hair
stylist. When making the decision to go short we often have a certain “look” in mind.
However, our mental image of what would looks good, does not always translate into a
good haircut. This is when you should let your stylist take the reins, it is what they are
trained for.

One of the main things to take into consideration with short hair, is texture. If you
have naturally curly hair, then this is something you know very well. The last thing a
woman with curly hair wants is to feel like she is walking around with a big ball of frizzy
curls, instead of a flattering hair style. With that being said, let’s talk about the angled
bob, which is one of my favorite styles. Especially when it comes to the curly hair guests
that likes the versatility of a short style that looks great curly, yet is long enough to make
straightening easy and manageable. When it comes to living through the humidity of
North Carolina summers, manageability of the style is important for curly hair. Another
great option for style support of curly hair is a Natural Keratin Smoothing Treatment. This
treatment uses keratin, which is a naturally occurring protein, to seal the cuticle layer of
the hair shaft. This sealing action works to nourish the hair shaft and prevent frizz.
If you are looking for something a little shorter and with a touch of sass, then a pixie
might be perfect for you. When someone mentions a pixie the first thing that
automatically comes to mind is the classic black and white image of Twiggy from the
60’s. This is by far one of the most fashion forward haircuts a woman can have, because
it makes a statement. I’ve always loved this haircut since it looks different on every
woman. Every time a guest with long hair sits in my chair and shows me pictures of a
pixie with lots of loose texture, and a short fringe, I get excited. This is where I put my
skills to work to create a completely bespoke haircut that is unique to my guest’s
features. Another great thing about a pixie is that it really shows off a woman’s best
facial features.

The main thing most women tend to worry about when cutting their hair this short, is
the dreaded fear of looking too much like a boy. In my professional opinion, most women
that have this concern typically do not have anything to worry about. That’s where the fine
details of the style really come into play. If I know my guest wears glasses the majority
of the time, I will shape her fringe and ear line to compliment her frames. This goes back
to the fine detail work and customization of the haircut that transforms it into a bespoke

My #1 haircut is the “I want to cut all my hair off” haircut. If you read Cosmo in the
90’s, I’m sure you heard horror stories like this. Don’t believe the hype. I’m not telling you
to cut all your hair off, but if you are considering it, then go for it!!! For whatever
reason, damage, change, breakup; don’t be afraid to go short.

Grey hair, what do we do about grey hair? Own it, love it, because it’s what your mom
has. I am a colorist, but my passion is deeply rooted in haircutting. I have a handful of
clients with the most beautifully marbled salt and pepper hair, that 20 somethings on
Instagram want to have. They have decided to embrace their grey and opt for a funky and fun
pixie cut, because it’s youthful look is timeless and easy to style.
Once you’ve found a short haircut you love, keep in mind that sometimes less is
more. Meaning that even though you’ve reduced style times, you may have to make
more frequent trips to the salon. We recommend every 4-5 weeks to maintain your style.
If you have been thinking about changing it up and going short, now is time to come see
us at DSparada. If you already have short hair, but just haven’t found the cut that is right
for you, we invite you to come have a complimentary consultation. We look forward to
seeing you!

By Jon Weston